Volume 3, Issue 9

Sept 2006

 

Our Past, Present & Future...

The United Hillyard Bank/ United Hillyard Antique Mall

5016 N. Market Street
Historic Hillyard
Spokane, WA 99217


Past...
By Brooke Plastino
for the National Register of Historic Places Registration Form.
(read more below)

Building.  The United Hillyard Bank building is a two story brick commercial building located in the center of the Hillyard business district, with a distinctive 60-foot Beaux Arts facade of tan Masonic rug brick and glazed terra cotta decorative trim, facing onto Market Street.  A cast iron marquee, made to order by Union Iron Works, is suspended over centrally located double doors and projects from the middle two of eight pilasters.  Seven semi-circular windows (three presently filled with matching brick and the remaining four having aluminum framed replacement storm windows) span the capitals of the pilasters, each above a rectangular store front window frame topped by a triplex of small, nearly square windows with awning hung central frames.  Although somewhat faded in grandeur by 68-years use as a commercial building, the structure, with it's bold two story facade, continues to reflect the feeling of an anchor of stability and strong economic presence, that once was the pride of the Hillyard community.  The building was designed and constructed in 1928-29 by locally prominent architect Henry T. Bertlesen, long time associate of Kirtland K. Cutter and Karl G. Malmgren. Master carpenters M. Ewing and V. C. Koening of Hillyard re-constructed both the front exterior and interior spaces, installing woodwork and furniture of Philippine mahogany that resulted in a bank of the modern, open lobby design prevalent today.  At the time there was but one other of this type in the Northwest.  The distinctive facade and extensive interior modifications physically joined and consolidated the Hillyard State Bank (constructed and opened for business in 1905) and the First National Bank of Hillyard (built on the adjacent lot in 1908), in what was described as both physically, and financially, a rare and unusual occurrence. The commercial district surrounding the bank building consists of a five to six block strip (and the immediate side streets) along Market Street, with 30-foot frontage lots occupied by one and two story, brick, block, or frame commercial structures reflecting the varied architectural styles of the early twentieth century.  The business districts location, directly west and adjacent to the site of the Great Northern Machine Shops (selected by railroad magnate James Hill in 1889.  The presence of which largely was responsible for the existence and economic growth of Hillyard.  The business district acts as a buffer between the town’s working class residential neighborhood of paved, 30ft wide, tree lined streets, and neatly kept, unpretentious, residences of the same historic period.

The exterior foundation is finished with a grey concrete mortar, scored to resemble concrete block construction.  The two story building is constructed of red brick with a stylized 60-foot Beaux Arts facade of tan Masonic rug brick with tooled, concave, mortar joints.  It is trimmed in light pink, glazed, terra cotta tiles, with an ornate bias relief floral motif.  Visually, the facade is divided into a series of seven tall arches with second story semicircular windows (two of which were bricked in during 1952 with matching rug brick) were supported by eight, fifteen inch square pilasters capped with stylized Ionic capitals of tile with incised volutes.  Bias relief tile decorative panels form the upper story window sills, spanning the capitals and horizontally dividing the facade two thirds up the face. Bertelsen’s attention to detail and the craftsmanship of the brick masons can be seen in the decorative brick patterns which separate the store front windows from the arched windows of the second story.  Above a niche into which is set the lower window, a flat lintel is set consisting of one course of vertical laid bricks.  Above the lintel are three running courses and nine courses of Flemish stretchers, topped by another three running courses reaching to the upper window sill panels.  The capitals support decorative bias relief tile blocks with five, progressively smaller, flared lipped, nested, concentric rings, which separate the semicircular, vertical laid brick lintels above the windows.  Springing from the top of the decorative tile blocks is a course of dentils framing the arch of the lintel.  A glazed tile keystone with a bronze medallion depicting a Mercury head coin set at the apex of each arch.  Near the top of the building a course of corner laid dentils and a header course stretches across the facade directly below the cornice, which is constructed with glazed tile cornice blocks repeating the incised, stylized, volutes motif of the capitals.  At each corner and above each pilaster, a glazed terra cotta shield with the monogram 'UBH' is placed. Located at the center of the cornice, above the entrance, is a broken central tile with remnants of the lower legs and talons of a sculpted Eagle which once graced the building.  The roof is flat with a brick chimney in the center and is sealed with multiple layers of tar and gravel. Above the inward swinging front doors a heavy cast iron marquee, made to order by union Iron Works, is suspended from the middle two pilasters and extends over the entrance level sidewalk.  Residual pigments can be seen on and around the embossed floral trim of the frieze and the leaf form motif of the cresting, originally done in Verdi Antique with colors.  Windows are situated between the pilasters on either side of the entrance, each with a sill consisting of four large tile blocks.  The casings (also once trimmed in Verdi Antique, but now, like the under side of the marquee, painted dark brown) contain large, slightly rectangular, horizontally orientated panes below three small, slightly rectangular, vertically orientated panes.  The middle frames of the window triplexes are awing hung and open onto the street. Six window and doorway openings, filled with red brick to match the construction bricks of the remaining exterior and interior masonry walls, are visible in the Southern exposure. The 1929 second story addition is also visible in this surface, evident by mortar joints and craftsmanship matching the facade rather than the original construction.  Five rectangular upper story windows (three with arched and two with rectangular lintels) remain in the eastern and northern exterior walls.  A single rectangular window with an arched lintel and iron bars is present in the eastern wall, centered directly above cellar doors leading into a deep half basement below the northern part of the building. A one story reinforced concrete addition, extending to the alley, was built against the southeastern half of the building in 1948, but is so dissimilar in style, construction methods, and building materials that it appears to be separate from the bank building.

The interior has been extensively remodeled and modified over the years since the building ceased functioning as a financial institution in the mid seventies.  Lance Tibbett, the present owner and life long resident of Hillyard, has restored much of the original interior spatial arrangement, exposing and restoring details such as the two tier track molding around the original ceiling.  Evidence of the extent to which the interior was once modified can be seen in a remaining, centrally located cubicle constructed of two by four framed walls and clad in painted sheetrock with a suspended acoustical tile ceiling. This ceiling treatment remains in a few places and damage to the original plaster is evident here and there where the framework of the suspended ceiling was attached.  The floor in the front section of the building is done in terrazzo; white and brown squares separated by brass strips, and was installed by the Spokane specialists Val. Pagnutti Co.  The brick vault of the original Hillyard National Bank, with its heavy and ornate steel door frame, remains present directly northeast of the remodeled cubicle.  Northeast of the vault is a ten by fourteen foot area that was once the director’s room and in the extreme northeast corner of the building a twelve by seventeen foot area is present which was originally the director’s private office. The entire upstairs, originally offices and converted into a residence by Harry Packer in 1971, has had all interior walls removed and is presently open from wall to wall.

History Section - Part of Something.  In March 1880, while surveying the land for the Government Land Office, Edwin Richardson noted only a wagon road crossing the northwest corner of Sec. 34, T.26N, R.43E, and small trail along the western edge of the section.  This was part of an area known by the upper Spokane Indians as Wild Horse Prairie, a sandy meadow of grasses where they met and raced horses during the warm days of early spring. Seven years later, on October 11, 1887, Leland D. Westfall registered a homestead entry on the 160 acre SW quarter of Section 34, and was granted patent to the land on May 11, 1891.  On May 28 of the same year John F. Robertson made a cash entry for the west half of the northeast and southeast quarters of Sec. 34 (a strip of land a quarter mile wide by one mile long), but appears to have lost rights to his claim to a Trust and Loan company, who was granted patent December 7,1889.  In such a manner the public lands which were to become the commercial and industrial center of Hillyard, Washington, passed into private hands.

In 1889 railroad magnate Jerome (Jim) Hill, founder of the Great Northern Railroad, visited Spokane and was quoted as saying he believed the area would become the Minneapolis-St. Paul of the West.  Hill, a native of Ontario, Canada, chose to avoid both federal land grants and taxation by the city of Spokane when he selected a location five miles north of Spokane, purchasing the mile long parcel Robertson had claimed and lost to the Trust and Loan Company.  Here he built a materials yard for the Great Northern Railroad, and by the late 1800's nearly 500 workers were employed. A business and residential community built up on the quarter section west of the rail yard originally homesteaded by Westfall, who with his wife Katie, platted the town site of Hillyard in 1892.

In 1893 the G.N.R. constructed a twenty-stall brick engine house, a sixty foot turntable, and a ten pocket coal chute at the site of the material yards.  Workers, who toiled twelve hour days six days a week, poured into the taverns in town when their shifts were over.  Partly due to the numbers of railroad workers and laborers residing in the area, and their propensity to visit the taverns after work, Hillyard gained a reputation as a rough and tumble town.

By 1912 the downtown had a number of licensed drinking establishments as well as at least six unlicensed taverns, many with rooms or cribs where prostitutes plied their trade.  Spokane didn't help, with its occasional campaigns conducted by police to clean up the flesh trade along East Sprague, a practice which tended to force the prostitutes north and into the Hillyard area, often resulting in open and stiff competition among the ladies.

On September 7, 1905, the Hillyard State Bank opened at 549 Market Street in a one story brick building near the center of town, with capital of $25,000 and the intent, "To do a general banking business". The First National Bank of Hillyard, also with $25,000 capital, built upon an adjacent lot at 545 Market and joined in the banking business September 11, 1908.  These banks, located side by side, formed the financial nucleus around which a thriving business community grew, flourishing with the success of their commercial customers and the growing G.N.R. rail yards.  By 1910 both institutions reported healthy growth and increases in deposits of about ten percent per year.

Living conditions in the working class railroad community were somewhat coarse, lacking sewers and improved roads, with poor schools, water, and electrical utilities.  Early efforts to improve living conditions in Hillyard, spearheaded by community booster groups such as the Good Citizen League and the Board of Trade, culminated in a push for incorporation by community leaders, beginning in 1904.  Jim Hill and the G.N.R. hotly opposed the town’s incorporation, fearing its ability to create ordinances and levy taxes for improvements.  He had specifically chosen the location of his rail yards, five miles outside of Spokane, to avoid this kind of taxation, and ironically their existence was in large part responsible for the community which had sprung up around them.

Unable to stop the incorporation movement in 1907, Hill was able to influence the new towns boundaries excluding his rail yards from within its' confines.  He also financially supported the candidacy of his company physician, Dr. Joseph Farrow, in a successful bid for the position of first Mayor of Hillyard. Dr. Farrow’s tenure was short-lived however, with another Mayor installed before the end of the year.  He remained an influential leader in the community and is listed in the Polk City Directory the following year as Vice President of the new First National Bank of Hillyard.  Dr. Farrow maintained this position, or that of bank director, well into the 1930's.

Another option, that of annexation to Spokane, was brought up as early as 1904 and remained a divisive issue among residents for years.  The obvious benefits of becoming part of Spokane were street improvements, city water and sewer lines, less expensive electricity, city fire and police protection, and the severely overcrowded Hillyard schools would be taken over by School District #81. Subjugation to the ordinances, laws, and taxes of Spokane was an unacceptable price to pay for the majority of residents and business leaders of Hillyard.

From the beginning of the history of Hillyard, the more genteel and prosperous citizens of Spokane looked disparagingly upon the residents of the working class community, who were considered stupid, dirty and immoral.  At the same time, Spokane’s police, under the direction of elected leaders, routinely rounded up the less desirable elements within the city and set them loose at the southern boundary of Hillyard.  Hillyard jokes (much like "Pollack" jokes), were common outside the community well into the 1950's, and may still be heard on occasion.  So, the claim that annexation to Spokane would actually benefit Hillyard was questioned, if not outright disbelieved, by most of the residents, and as history shows, with good cause.  The annexation proposition was first voted on, and defeated, in 1915.  By the time the question of annexation came around for a vote on September 16, 1924, tensions were so high; Mayor Thomas Kehoe posted policemen at the polling places.  No problems occurred, however, and by ten in the morning it was announced Hillyard had become part of Spokane.

The Hillyard maintenance shops came into their own during the 1920's, having grown into a facility able to accommodate as many as 30,000 freight cars, 500 cabooses, 400 passenger cars, and up to 200 locomotives per year.  In 1922, poor working conditions, twelve hour shifts, and low wages led to a strike by workers which lasted eight months and became a disaster for the town’s merchants, who extended massive amounts of credit to the striking workers.  After the strike was settled financial well being returned to Hillyard, and by November 21, 1927, the first locomotive built west of the Mississippi River, the R-1 class Mallet 2-8-8-2 (then the largest locomotive in the world), rolled out of the Hillyard Maintenance Yard on it's maiden run. By 1929 an even larger R-2 class Mallet locomotive was in production, measuring 119 feet long and weighing 529.6 tons.  It was the first of sixteen to be manufactured at the Hillyard yards.

The fortunes of Hillyard residents and the business community rose and fell with those of the railroads in general, and with the Great Northern Railroad in particular.  The First National Bank of Hillyard (its address changed to N. 5016 Market Street after annexation to Spokane), published resources of $725,149.89 in their Report of Condition dated December 31, 1927.  The Hillyard State Bank (its' address now changed to N. 5018 Market Street), surely was doing equally well, as the two banks joined forces to buy the Hillyard Brotherhood Bank on January 23, 1929, when an inexplicable run of withdrawals threatened to put the bank, "On the rocks".  The absorption of the Hillyard Brotherhood went so well the two banks joined in a unique merger, both physically and financially, to become the United Bank of Hillyard.

Inside walls and the fronts of the two buildings were removed, then merged, a new safe installed, terrazzo floor laid in the lobby, and a second story added. A stylized Beaux Arts facade, with arched second story Windows supported by pilasters, and trimmed in glazed terra cotta tiles (designed and implemented by architect H.C. Bertlesen, a long time associate of Kirkland Cutter), joined the front of the two banks into a single building. The open lobby design, with tellers behind a counter rather than inside raised wrought iron cages, was only the second of its type to be built in the Northwest.

The Brotherhood building was occupied during 'construction, with the newly merged bank reporting resources of $1,562,893.49 in their Statement of Condition, dated June 29, 1929, just days prior to moving into the new building and opening July 8, 1929. Less than a year later, on April 30, 1930, the United Bank of Hillyard was reported as, "One of the largest and soundest in the city (Spokane) paying dividends of eight dollars per share on capital of $150,000, with a total disbursement of $12,000 for the year. The bank, declining to become a part of any chain, had maintained its' independent position, keeping local deposits in local hands and available for local loans.  Thus, the effects of the stock market crash of November, 1929 were not immediately seen in the Hillyard economy.  When the Great Depression of the 1930's did reach Hillyard, its' effects seemed to be harsher on, and last longer for, the blue-collar working class of Hillyard than for the rest of the nation. Depressed economic and industrial conditions limited the amount of goods transported by the railroads, in turn reducing the quantity of rail cars and locomotives in service, and ultimately the need to repair and maintain a large fleet of railroad equipment.  After the close of business May 4, 1932, the united Bank of Hillyard closed its doors to its depositors for reorganization.  Citing the depressed economic and industrial conditions of the time and a group of loans, "Good when made, but now, as the result of changed conditions, of limited value.”  To save the bank, the directors proposed a holding company into which the banks assets would be placed, and asked the depositors to release 50 percent of their deposits into the holding company, the other 50 percent made available immediately to the depositors.  The result was the depositors became the stockholders of the holding company, which in turn owned the bank.  Because the reorganization plan required a unanimous agreement of approximately 2,000 depositors, the bank remained closed the entire three months allowed by law for the reorganization process.  Although it opened its doors again, they were closed numerous times throughout the subsequent years until 1940, when the United Bank of Hillyard was acquired by the Seattle First National Bank.

We will leave you for now but promise to tell you more of what this building is doing for Hillyard today…. Until we talk again.

Editor’s Note: Thank you Brooke Plastino for coming forward as the author of this wonderful piece of literature.  Mr. Plastino composed this work as the Description and Statement of Significance for the registration form.  You can view the entire form here.  Mr. Plastino composed this work as a part of his Eastern Washington University graduate class Cultural Resources Management: History/Anthropology/Geography under Prof. Craig Holstine.  This effort, and the efforts of all of Prof. Holstine's students, Hillyard was placed on the Historic Register. 

Present and Future...
by Jim Solomon

United Hillyard Bank building was purchased in March 1988, by Lance & Deana Tibbett. Having been vacant for a couple of years, they undertook the challenge of cleaning and painting, which turned out to be a three month task. But they did it, reopening for business late in May, as United Hillyard Mall, a family owned business of Antiques & Collectibles. One of three such businesses located in Hillyard at that time, today the United Hillyard Antique Mall is 1 of 10 retail stores in Historic Hillyard. With the passing of Lance in 1999, Deana operated the business until May of 2001. Deana & Jim Solomon married in May 2001; her passion for collecting is shared by Jim and their 2 daughters.

United Hillyard Antique Mall has something to offer everyone, a clean, bright store with air conditioning and room to roam. The store features a wide variety of collectibles and prices provided by 14 different dealers. You’ll always find a sale sign somewhere, 10% off or more. Once, a customer asked if so many shops in 1 area was bad for business? No, more businesses provide a wider selection and we welcome all new businesses to Hillyard. We have dealers that have remained with us from our opening, and with our upcoming expansion of the 2nd floor, we’ll be advertising for more Antique & Collectibles dealers in the near future. We have applied for a building permit with the City of Spokane, (still in review) and are looking to replace all six 2nd floor windows and have a photo from 1930’s showing the style to work off of. We’ve already installed new door’s, awnings and rebuilt the marquee above the entrance (look up), while working with the City of Spokane and the Historic Preservation Office.

While economy changes and local road construction effects every business large and small, we have shown a steady increase in sales. The business district is working together to stop crime, by providing on street camera’s and sharing information. Hillyard businesses are working together on a combined effort to promote the Hillyard Business District.

Hillyard has out lived its reputation as a railroad town and today is a thriving community. Businesses are moving into Hillyard. While the City of Spokane is slow to recognize the potential grow of Hillyard, it is rewarding to see new businesses moving into our community. Businesses of Hillyard and Community groups are working together towards a goal. Having a business in Historic Hillyard and sharing the history of our community with visitors has been rewarding.

Need a day out? Take a Trip and Visit Historic Hillyard.
 

Volume 3, Issue 9


© Historic-Hillyard.com

Sept 2006